Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their younger generation do not want to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
