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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.